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Slot Canyon Waterfall, Fry Canyon Area, Southeastern Utah
(This is an excerpt from a longer story) The small slot canyon, barely visible from above, looks like a partially opened black zipper at the the bottom of Fry Canyon. A thin stream of water disappears into the slot hundreds of feet below us. From the western rim, we set up a rappel and descend to a ledge full of Anasazi Indian ruins. The ruins, though interesting, are not as complete as those found in the Grand Gulch Primitive Area. The alcove that shelters the ruins is massive and beautiful, but there is little arable land on the canyon floor and that is the probable reason for the lack of mud chinking in the rock dwellings, for the temporary feel of the site. Another short rappel takes us to the canyon floor. The slot beckons us like a dark secret. The sandstone is whorled and knurled by past flash floods. The teeth of the "zipper," now above us, are rounded black knobs that block most of the sunlight. The light that finds its way in plays wondrous tricks with the coral and pink stones, flowing over them like a caress. Where we can wade no further, a skein of water cascades into a blue and green pool. The danger here is palpable. We linger as long as we dare.... Image of Lynna rapelling into White Canyon is courtesy of Leland Howard. Jacob's Chair Area, Near White Canyon, Southeastern Utah Sandstone is endlessly mutable. Hundreds of miles of it patiently await the master carvers, wind and rain. The soft stone is smoothed, drilled, coerced by the carvers until it assumes shapes like drifted snow, like the prehistoric animals who roamed over the stone when it was beach sand. I climb into one of the large pockets in the stone and sit there like a grinning gargoyle. One could stay here 10,000 years and watch the stone erode into ever more fascinating whorls and places to hold things, maybe a place to hold thoughts or water or the last light before the sun is gone. Maybe nothing. It is good to see emptiness so well arranged. In the distance, harder rock resists erosion to form buttes, castle-like buttresses that decorate the skyline. Behind me is Jacob's Chair, a butte named for a cowboy who lost his life in a flash flood. In front of me is a nameless form with a skirt of eroded material. Though the landscape looks austere, I know that flowers are blooming in all the hidden, sheltered spots. Walking up here I found Arizona Jewel Flower, Bird Cage Evening Primrose, Skyrockets, Indian Paint Brush, Sotol (a yucca plant with a bloom that looks like asparagus), and Claret Cup Cactus It is April now, and cool, but you can tell that all the area around Lake Powell will be searingly hot in the summer, that the surrounding desert will be throat-gaspingly dry, and the lake will sit like a piece of hard turquoise, an intricate, centipede-shaped gem at the center of all that thirst.... Directions: Hwy 95, between Hite Crossing at the northern end of Lake Powell and Natural Bridges Monument: This is BLM land with many small roads leading to possible camping sites. There are only two places, however, to cross White Canyon. Gravel Crossing, near Jacob's Chair is the best crossing. 4-wheel drive is required for Gravel Crossing. Practical Tips: Bring lots of drinking water. Most camping spots are unimproved and dry. High winds can make tent camping difficult. Photo Tips: Spring flowers can bloom here as early as April. The views into White Canyon are varied and hiking the canyon rim can present many photo opportunities. Best Season to Visit: Winter, late spring, or early fall. Check with local Rangers because some areas may be closed to protect Big Horn Sheep Bryce Canyon National Park, South Central Utah I hear the distinctive rumble of an avalanche beginning and duck under an overhang just in time to escape a small shower of rocks. Erosion. The major force at work here, brought forcefully home. In the less constricted gorges, pine trees stand out in verdigris relief from the eroding sandstone walls. In the narrowest canyons, pallorous pillars, some the sallow color of old stage makeup, some as red as a Tuscan roof, pinch off all but a thin slice of sky. There are spires that stand alone, dominating the space around them, others are in the slow process of becoming, like bas relief figures in a huge wall. In winter, black crows circle and call to each other in the upper reaches of the spires; changing like shape shifters from black to grey to dimly wraith-like as they move in and out of the low clouds and mists that cling to the topmost pillars. Older than 10,000 centuries, the eroded "Hoodoo" formations of Bryce Canyon resemble the lathed forms of some gigantic master workman touched with madness. Paiute Indians call the area `red-rocks-standing-like-men-in-a-bowl-shaped-canyon". The "men" may stand as tall as 1,000 feet and are surrounded by the wild architecture of natural forms resembling cathedrals, temples, ruins, dragons, gargoyles and every other form that may come to the imaginative mind.... Directions: Turn east from US 89 seven miles south of Panguitch, onto State Hwy 12. Practical Tips: The elevation of 8,000 feet at the rim usually guarantees cooler temperatures, seldom exceeding 80 degrees in the summer. The North Campground is open all year, but high winds and extreme cold make winter camping difficult. Intrepid campers will be rewarded however with empty trails covered in creamy-soft snow and mists that swirl around the eroded shapes, creating a mysterious landscape completely different from the crowded, noisy atmosphere that characterizes the summer months. There are miles of hiking trails, most in good condition, but washed out trails in spring or heavy snows in winter both require good hiking boots. 801-834-5322 for more information. Photo Tips: "Sunrise" and "Sunset" view points are accurately named. Recent rain or snow intensifies the colors. Some vistas, like those from Rainbow or Yovimpa view points, allow you to see into Arizona and New Mexico on clear, winter days. Deep in the canyons, reflected light creates subtle effects that are well-worth capturing. Best Season to Visit: This National Park is visited by more than 1.5 million people every year. Go when the tourist traffic is lowest to experience Bryce Canyon as a beautiful natural phenomenon instead of as a theme park
Forest in winter, image courtesy of Leland Howard The width and depth of this wilderness area make it difficult to access. Spirit Lake is literally at the end of a rough road that penetrates as high into the area as one can drive. The Spirit Lake Lodge is primitive. "Rustic" is the polite word. Being too far from civilization to have the usual electricity and phone setups, they run a generator for lights (and to power the amps for the "Mountain Cowboy Band"). Stoked with muddy coffee from a pot that has been used over a campfire, Leland and I brave the first snows of September to explore the nearby ponds and lakes. The sky is overcast, but the day lightens on a fantasy of ice and snow. We see four elk as we make our way up the mountain through the trees. How long has it been since you walked in a wild and trackless forest in a snowstorm? With every breath, you take in some cause for joy that you were otherwise without. We cross into the High Uinta Wilderness area and climb a 12,000 foot peak. From its summit we see the deep defile of Flaming Gorge and several of the 13,000 plus peaks that make up the backbone of the Uintas. Named and nameless lakes and ponds dot the wilderness as far as the eye can see. On the way down, in the late afternoon light, we cross paths with two moose so darkly colored that they look like a black streak as they disappear in the thick forest.... Directions: From Vernal take Hwy 191 north to Flaming Gorge. From Interstate 80 in Wyoming, take 530 south to Manila and the Flaming Gorge area. Maps are available in Manila. The 4-wheel-drive-recommended road to Spirit Lake takes off from the Sheep Creek Canyon Loop of the Flaming Gorge area. It's about 26 rough, slow miles to the lake. Practical Tips: As the road climbs up into the wilderness, you will most likely encounter cooler weather. Be prepared for cold nights. There is a Forest Service campground at Spirit Lake and the lodge offers primitive accommodations in cabins. For hiking in this area, you definitely need a topographical map to find your way around. There are many hiking trails, and many desirable destinations without trails. Most destinations require at least an overnight backpacking trip. Some, such as the 56-mile long trail along the high ridges of the Uintas, require 6 to 7 days and excellent wilderness skills. There are outfitters who specialize in pack-horse-aided treks. 1-801-885-3315 for more information. Photo Tips: The dense lodgepole pine forests create problems for the photographer. The forest thins out at higher elevations, so extended hikes or climbs are the norm if you're seeking long views. At lower elevations, the lakes and trails offer their best moods when dramatic weather lifts them from the ordinary into the sublime. Best Season to Visit: Spirit Lake Lodge closes around mid to late September, depending upon the snows. The road may be closed due to snow after that. July, August and early September offer good hiking weather (This is an excerpt from a longer story that appears in a compendium of travel diaries.) Mount Timpanogos, Wasatch Mountains, North Central Utah (This is an excerpt from a longer story that appears in a compendium of travel diaries.) In early October, it frosts hard at night. Every day the leaves turn another corner towards the end. A small stream near my tent turns black with cold, but looks to carry on it's surface an inch of gold -- the reflected light of a stand of nodding aspens on the slope above. Elk bugle on the lower slopes below Mount Timpanogos. The higher peaks try to shoulder their way through the clouds and into the fitful sunlight. On Timpanogos' 11,750 foot peak it is already winter and harsh gusts lift the new snow up to mix it with the clouds.... Directions: Hwy 92 is accessible from US 189, 12 miles from Provo; or from Interstate 15 north of American Fork. Drive with extreme caution, keeping far right on the curves as you follow the Hwy 92 Alpine Scenic Drive. It is the narrowest paved road in the state. The east fork to the springs is normal width, but the rest of the loop is not suitable for trailers or RVs. Practical Tips: There are several no-fee camping spots along the Cascade Springs fork of The Alpine Scenic Loop and some commercial campgrounds on the main loop. From Aspen Grove a foot trail leads 6 miles to the Timpanogos summit. Hiking boots recommended. 1-800-377-2262 for more information. 1-800-492-2400 for road conditions. Best Season to Visit: Late spring, summer and early fall for hiking. Late September to early October for fall photography. Winter for skiing.
Fall color image courtesy of Leland Howard At Cascade Springs, groundwater surfaces through coarse glacial sediments.The rest of Utah may be bone dry, and as dusty as fine face powder, but at Cascade, aquatic songbirds walk along the bottom of the stream eating insects. Cattails, yellow columbine, monkshood, monkey flowers, scoulers willows, brown trout, gambel oak, river birch, canyon maple, and badgers flourish. Everything seems to have pores that are breathing water, including the rock itself. The "tufa" formations are dreamlike, a secret interior unexpectedly laid out for viewing in the plain light of day. The finely-haired leaves of the canyon maples (relative of eastern sugar maples) hold infinitesimal amounts of moisture on their surfaces so that they sparkle in the sunlight. Leland captured their reflections in the shallow travertine pools.... Directions: Follow the northeast fork of The Alpine Scenic Loop (Hwy 92) six miles to Cascade Springs. The road is paved to the springs. Nearby points of interest include Sundance ski resort and Mount Timpanogos. Practical Tips: There are several camping spots along the Cascade Springs fork of The Alpine Scenic Loop. You can see most of the camping sites from the road. Many are accessible to 2 wheel drive vehicles. Campgrounds near the springs are usually over-crowded, look for dirt roads that lead to unnamed sites instead. The fork to the springs is normal width, but the rest of the loop is very narrow and is not suitable for trailers or RVs. Be prepared for very cold, damp mornings, warmer days. 1-800-377-2262 for more information. 1-800-492-2400 for road conditions. Photo Tips: Photographers will find the best light at dawn on the road above the springs, where red maples and aspens peak near the end of September or first of October. Shepherds on horseback move sheep down from the high valleys in the fall, providing additional photo opportunities. You can see Mount Timpanogos, and Cascade Mountain in the background. About 2 hours after the sun hits the peaks, it finally makes its way down into the springs. After a light snowfall, the colors are intensified. Best Season to Visit: Fall. Late September to early October is best for the red maples and golden aspens. White Canyon Area, Near Natural Bridges Monument
Acknowledged, but subdued, the sun comes softly here by indirect means. Sunlight bounces from nearby cliffs and falls gently on sandstone, waterfall and pool. The light brings with it the colors of the surface it first strikes, saturating and intensifying the natural warmth of its secondary province. Between Blanding and Lake Powell lies an enormous plateau, cut by wind and water into many-fingered gorges and canyons, some as deep as 2,500 feet. For a few, brief moments each day the sun finds its way to the bottom of the narrower gorges. For most of the day, the walls and floors in the depths of the White Canyon area are lit by indirect, reflected light. For photographers, it is a college for the study of light. For hikers it is a magical maze full of rock colored so subtly that it seems one can look into the stones like looking into the eyes of someone you love, finding there an endless "conversation" of reflected light. As recently as 700 years ago, Anasazi Indians built their stone shelters near here. The ruins hug the inside curves of nearly inaccessible alcoves eroded from the high cliffs. The Anasazi planted corn where the canyons widened and left their pictographs, faint rock art now faded by time, in sheltered spots. It's common for hikers to come upon signs of past civilizations, some noted on Forest Service maps, others there for you to discover, perhaps for the first time... Directions: State Highway 95 connects Blanding on the east with Hanksville on the west. This link provides paved access to Natural Bridges and to Lake Powell. The area can be reached from the south via State Highway 261, a mostly paved link with U.S. Highway 163 near Mexican Hat. It is administered by Canyonlands National Park offices in Moab. Maps are available in Moab and at the Natural Bridges Monument Visitor Center. Practical Tips: Intrepid explorers should add a topographical map to their arsenal of maps and head out on their own. Take note of the weather first, flash flood dangers should be treated with respect. Carry your own camping gear, water, food, gasoline and oil. The nearest services are about 40 miles away in Blanding. Some side roads will require 4 wheel drive, but there are good hiking destinations from paved roads also. Even summer temperatures can vary 50 degrees in a single day. Dress in layers. Carry a waterproof jacket. Hiking boots are a must. 1-801-259-7164 for more information. Photo Tips: Photographers will find the best light for long views and vistas at sunset and sunrise, but reflected light in the deeper canyons can extend the "good light" time far into the day. Reflected light emphasizes textures, even though it cuts down on shadows and contrast. Look for interesting shapes and textures. Best Season to Visit: The Canyonlands are open all year. Intrepid explorers should go in winter when visitors are none to few and snow and rain transform the landscape. Late fall is a good time for canyon hiking -- Cottonwoods and willows add fall color to the rocky wonderland. Right Fork of Logan River, Logan Canyon, Northeastern Utah
Shifting winds move upstream sending careless showers of leaves into the water. Some shoot through the "tongues" like kayakers who know where to look for fast water, some catch in the "hole" where reverse current holds them in thrall and eventually sends them to the bottom. Lemony box elders, the froth from the waterfalls, the scene-stealing maples all glow as the sun sets. The allure is in the brevity of the moment, in the river's pact with change. Just as you look, it is gone... Directions: Take the east fork of US 89 off US 91 in the center of Logan. You'll soon leave the city behind and enter 30-mile long Logan Canyon. The river and the canyon are part of the Bear River Range, fairly gentle mountains with recreational and private property scattered throughout the area. Watch for a dirt road on the south side of US 89 with a small sign "Right Fork, Logan River". This is where you want to go to find the sylvan scenes along the smaller fork of the river. The fork and the dirt road that parallels it are not marked on many maps so you have to watch for the sign. If you come to "Logan Cave" on the main road, you've gone too far. Practical Tips: Check with the local shops for guides to rock climbing sites in the canyon. There are some camping spots along the Right Fork road. 1-800-882-4433 for more information. Photo Tips: Photographers will find the best light at sunset. After you leave the canyon and climb past the 7,800 foot summit pass on US 89, you can set up for a sunrise shot of Bear Lake if you're intrepid enough to look for a camping spot on the unmarked roads that lead to lake overlooks. 4 wheel drive is recommended for the overlook roads. Best Season to Visit: Fall. Late September is best for the red maples and golden aspens. Return to Lynna Howard's Homepage | Poetry Menu | Published Books | Mining | View Sample Photos by Leland Howard Legalese: Unless otherwise noted, the text and images that appear on this web site are copyrighted material. Please do not copy or redistribute these materials in any way without prior permission. Thank you, Lynna Howard, 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008. All rights reserved. |
Water courses golden, mauve and holland-blue down rocks molten with light. The stones run like liquor into the water which leaps down its eroded channel. The water is full of refracted light, no longer a color all its own, but a meld of bending stone color and sun color. Photo courtesy of Leland Howard, copyright by Leland Howard.
(This is an excerpt from a longer story that appears in a compendium of the travel diaries)