The Old Missionaries Return to Brasil

November 2007


Tuesday in Atlanta... Can't wait to get started!


Wednesday, Porto Alegre. David, Sharon, and Clint Lingren--we never let the bus leave without them.


We visited the old 2nd and 4th branch chapel on Princesa Isabel


Now we go back in time. Here are the Zoccoli family: Cleuza, Mário, Paulo, Carlos, Mãe, Claudia, Pai, and Daví in Vacaria, January 1970. I overstayed my transfer to baptize Cleuza, Mário, Paulo, and Carlos. They later brought Mãe and Pai into the Church.


Back at the chapel on Princesa Isabel, we were very happy to see Paulo again after 38 years. Paulo has served as a bishop in the Porto Alegre area.


Carlos came to see us too! Carlos is bishop of the ward that meets here. He said the Minuano came and blew his hair off. I believe it.


Thursday morning, Porto Alegre. View from window of "Blue Tree Towers" hotel.


Porto Alegre Temple


Cloyd and Kathryn Gatrell with Carol


At the Porto Alegre Temple


Nossa Senhora das Dores, more than 200 years old, is the oldest church in Porto Alegre. Inside, I remarked to Carol that it still looks exactly as it did 38 years ago when I first saw it. Then we saw a sign that said, "Thanks to everyone who contributed to the recent restoration of N.S. das Dores".


Rua das Andradas, the old "Rua da Praia"


Rua das Andradas


Rua das Andradas, where I got my wisdom teeth out in 1970.


Rua Dr Flores, 105, the old entrance to the mission office... Right next to the doorway, behind the white van, you can see a salesgirl inviting people into the store above in room 215. She shouted again and again, "Moda Íntima", and had a sample of the merchandise hanging around her neck. The comic irony was not lost on me.


A friendly cat in front of Beth and Marta's veterinary shop


Thursday evening. Zoccoli families at Mama Mia Restaurante Italiano. Cleonice, Carlos, Paulo, Mãe, Artur, Greg, Carol, Kellen, Elizabeth (espôsa de Paulo), and Augusto. Nine-year-old Artur said to me, "Your english is much better than your portuguese."


Zoccoli families at Mama Mia Restaurante Italiano


Friday. Leaving the Hotel Blue Tree Towers in Porto Alegre.


Saturday morning. Panorama view of Ingleses, part of Florianópolis, on Santa Catarina Island. Carol wants to spend a year or so here after we retire. Good idea.


Breakfast with Cloyd and Kathryn Gatrell


And Mike and Donna Vehawn


Praia dos Ingleses


Praia dos Ingleses


Catherine and Lynn Jones, David "Churrasco" Richardson, Tina Kitchen, Charlynn Clark, George Leavitt, Charlynn's twin, and...


"I'm taken"


Carol had heard that Florianópolis is famous for hand-made lace. We wandered into a supermarket and asked where we might find some. The man ran behind the store and brought back his mother and an armload of lace. She showed us all about how she made it and even gave Carol a spindle. Hand-made lace is a tradition brought to the island by the Açoreanos. It's called "renda feita à mão".


This is Jaime, and the "Bunch of Flowers" pattern. Each of the pieces we bought has a name. The patterns and names come from nature, such as "Starry Sky" or "Coffee Flower".


Mano's Supermarket where we found Jaime and his mother.


Back on the beach after buying stuff in town.


The Veil of Iemanjá Bar and Restaurant. Iemanjá is the goddess of the sea.


Too soon we have to leave Praia dos Ingleses. Now we're at the first LDS chapel in South America, in the city of Joinville, Santa Catarina.


Kathryn and Cloyd in front of the first LDS chapel in South America


Dedicated in 1931


Glizelda the guide and Dick Jensen


Sunday morning. Chapel in Curitiba on Rua Gottlieb Mueller 96, with Roy and Lenora McClellan


A marker commemorates the settling of Curitiba more than 300 years ago.


Unusual and modern bus stops


Paraná pines at the Botanical Garden, Curitiba


The new Curitiba Temple


A Paraná pine nearly touches the temple.


Janice Clemmer on Praça Joseph Smith, in front of one of the LDS chapels


Monday morning we're on the way to the Curitiba airport. Brazil is full of beautiful old churches.


We flew Gol Airlines to Iguaçu and got to exit the back of the plane.


The Hotel das Cataratas is directly in front of the falls.


My Dad enjoyed pape haari almost every day in Tahiti, and I got to try one. We call it água de coco.
Actually, they call it that in Tahiti too, but they just say it differently.


Lunch with Lowell and Claudia Johnson


Turns out Kim Barney and I are 3rd cousins.


Bird nests


Off on another adventure--this time up the river to Iguaçu Falls.


Wet survivors



David Richardson, a brave soul.


Bring it on !


Looking toward the Argentina side.


You can see the walkway where people go out over the falls.


We went under one of these big falls--three times.


The Devil's Throat--As Virginia said, "An ugly name for a beautiful thing"


All wet, back up the trail...


Dennis and Jean Chamberlain


Shelena Miner, on her way home from her mission.


These long bird nests protect the babies from the pesky toucans.


Tuesday morning. The falls from in front of the hotel.


We walk up river to the Garganta do Diabo.



(Be sure to pan over to see these wide pictures...)



No picture can show all of this amazing waterfall.





The walkway to the edge of the falls



Dick back from the edge of the falls, all wet from spray.


Carol on the edge


A rainbow reflects from my bald spot.


View from near the top




With Virginia, all wet again.


Wednesday morning, out the window of the Hotel Miramar on Copacabana. A young man at the hotel told us the favelas are built by the "moradores" themselves, 99 % of whom are good working people.


Off to tour Rio. We were excited to see the "Edifício Oklahoma" near Copacabana.


Souvenir sellers entice the tourists (us) in Cosme Velho.


Here's my sweetie at the entrance to the train station. The train runs from
Cosme Velho to the summit of Corcovado at 2330 feet altitude.


A new train beside an old one. Santos Dumont, who everyone knows was the inventor of the airplane, used to
like to drive the train when he visited. The new trains were built in Switzerland and installed in 1980.


The cog-wheel railway runs 3.8 km through the Tijuca forest to the top of Corcovado.
It runs on 3-phase alternating current at 800 V and 60 Hz. It was electrified in 1910;
before that it ran on steam.


Here's Dan Mackintosh fixin' to board the train.


"Bom de Samba" entertained us on the ride to the top. In this picture I can see Dave Quist, Jean Chamberlain, Donna
Vehawn, Barbara Crawley with a really cool hat, Lia Davis, Bert and Maudeen Taylor, and Dennis "Tennessee" Chamberlain.


Diane Quist was always ready to get up and dance. Dave's doing a double-take.


At the top of the train line... members of "Bom de Samba".


Guanabara bay, the Pão de Açucar, and Botafogo. Certainly the most beautiful city in the world.


Panorama from the base of the Redentor on Corcovado. The Sugar Loaf (Pão de Açucar) at the left, Copacabana in the middle, Ipanema and the Jockey Club at the right.


In this picture I recognize David, David, Kim, Clint, and David. Do you see anyone else?

 Art Deco  Hillbilly Art
Considered the best "Art Deco" Christ statue in the world, Cristo Redentor remains attractive after almost eighty years. Compare the "Christ of the Ozarks", or "The Milk Carton with Arms", in Eureka Springs, Arkansas.


Completed in 1931, the Cristo Redentor is 30 meters tall (not including the pedestal),
made of reinforced concrete, and covered with little soapstone triangles.


Driving past the largest favela in Rio


Flávio the cab driver told us the government had considered removing the people from this favela, because they had "invaded" the Atlantic Forest and built their homes. "But where would you put thirty thousand people?"


The fortress at the end of Copacabana


A sand sculpture of Iemanjá. On New Year's Eve you can dress in white, go down to the beach, and throw your offering in the water. She prefers white flowers. She may or may not be pleased.


Copacabana


The "aqueduct" carries the streetcar track across a valley. On the right you see how it looked fifty years ago in the film "Orfeu Negro".


The old Odeon theater

 Today's cablecar  The first cablecar
The cablecar between Urca and Pão de Açucar. I spent about ten hours in Rio on my
way home a few days after Christmas 1970. On the right, you see how it looked then.


Everyone at Urca station was entertained by my attempt to make a picture in a convex mirror.


Looking toward Botafogo from between Urca and Pão de Açucar

 Botafogo today  Botafogo in 1970
Urca, Cristo Redentor on Corcovado, and Botafogo, with a similar view from Urca in 1970


Praia Vermelha from between Urca and Pão de Açucar


From the Pão de Açucar: Panorama of Copacabana, Praia Vermelha, Botafogo, and Flamengo. Here's the same view in 1970.


View of Copacabana and my sweetie, from the top of Pão de Açucar


I gave quinze reais for this cool hat. Some said I wouldn't wear it at home. But hey, it's me!


Looking toward Urca from the top


I think the favela scenes in "Orfeu Negro" were filmed on this morro. In the film, you could see Copacabana, Praia Vermelha, and Botafogo from the favela.


James and Charlynn Clark. The mosaic rosette points north.


I rode this cablecar in 1970. It seemed much bigger then. Aeroporto Santos Dumont in the background.


Thursday. The favela from our hotel window. It was a holiday, Quinze de Novembro, the first of six in a row. On the beach, a boy snatched Clint's camera from his hand, and with an accomplice evaded Clint's efforts to retreive it. The boy disappeared into the favela--the entrance is only a block and a half from the beach. Our friend Flávio the cab driver knew the boy, but feared to turn him in. Flávio believed if he did, they might "botar fogo" on his cab, if you know what I mean.


In an apartment across the street, the empregada does a thorough job.


Olhe, que coisa mais linda. Cloyd and Kathryn on the way to the beach. We went to the beach, but didn't take a camera. To be safe, we settled in front of two sleeping policemen. Then we tumbled around in the excellent waves. I still have seawater in my sinuses.


Copacabana from the top of the Miramar.


The lane near the beach is closed to motor-vehicle traffic on Sundays and holidays.


Isn't she pretty?


From the top floor of the Miramar on our last day in Brazil. In Rio, the poorest people have the best view.


Friday morning, back in Atlanta having made new friends never to be forgotten. We take saudades from
Brazil and our loved ones there.


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