SPICY BLACK-EYED PEAS

This is a basic recipe. The black-eyed peas may also be cooked with a ham bone, a precooked ham hock, or with olive oil instead of bacon fat. This last sacrifices the traditional smoky taste to contemporary concerns about cholesterol, but whatever way black-eyed peas are served, they're delicious.

Black-eyed peas can even be pickled, as in this recipe, which also goes by the name of Texas caviar. The dish can be prepared with either cooked dried black-eyed peas, canned ones, or, if you are really lucky and live in an area where they can be obtained, with fresh ones.

• 1 pound dried black-eyed peas, picked over
• 2 tablespoons rendered bacon fat
• 1 small onion, peeled

Pickled black-eyed peas:

• 1 recipe black-eyed peas, or three 16-ounce cans, rinsed and drained
• 1/2 small green bell pepper, minced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1/2 small red bell pepper, minced (about 1/2 cup)
• 4 scallions including green parts, sliced thin
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 teaspoon minced seeded habanero or other fresh hot chili, or to taste (wear rubber gloves)

In a bowl combine black-eyed peas with water to cover and let stand overnight.

Drain peas and in a 4-quart saucepan, combine with water to cover by 2 inches. Add bacon fat and onion. Simmer mixture, covered, 30 to 40 minutes, or until peas are tender, and drain well, discarding onion.

In a bowl, combine all ingredients with salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Chill mixture, covered, for at least 5 hours and up to 2 days.

Serve black-eyed peas chilled or at room temperature.

Serves 8

Gourmet
February 1995

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