DO NOT BUILD THIS KAYAK!
The
One Sheet Kayak
Just for something to do, I drew up a design for a one
sheet kayak. It's made out of 1/8" luan plywood and it should have a
displacement of around 90lbs.

I designed this Kayak using Greg
Carlson's Hulls Program
Click here for the Hulls file
Click here for the
offsets table
Here are the panels laid out..
Instead of using wire, or zip ties, I decided to sew
the boat together with fishing line.It was easy
to do, the monofilament line is stiff enough to feed through the holes
in the panels.

;
Here are the bottom panels sewn up.
The bottom panels laid on top of the sides. The
remainder of the 4"x8" sheet is seen leaning against the bench. The
top panels have yet to be cut out of
it.
A test before fiberglass.
Bottom and sides ready for fiberglass and epoxy.
Bottom fiberglassed with the top being sewn on.
Instead of just pouring a blob of epoxy, I shaped a
piece of wood and epoxied one in the bow and stern.
Sewing Detail
The Bottom Glassed
The bottom has been glassed inside and out. The top
has been glassed on the inside, but not the outside.
Material for the watertight compartments
bulkheads comes from the cutouts.
I set that piece at the approximate location of
the bulkhead and drew lines on both sides.
Doing this makes a piece larger than the final
bulkhead
Using a protractor I roughed out the hull shape
on the bulkhead
By repeating the above process, I ended up with
this.
Here is how it fits. This is the aft bulk
head and it ended up about 3" behind the seat opening. The placement is
not critical to me, I was just trying to enclose as much space as I could and
still leave a little room behind the seat.
Here is the process of roughing in the forward
watertight bulkhead. It ended up about 16" back from the bow, or about 42"
from the back of the seat. I came up with those measurements by looking at
a weight/height chart for an average 90lb. kid. A 90 pounder ought to be
able to sit against the seat and almost touch heels on the fore
bulkhead.
The fore bulkhead fitted and ready for
fiberglass. If you look in the picture above you will see sheet rock screw
that I had to put in the bulk head in order to get it in and out for the fitting
process. I'll remove the screw and fill the hole when I epoxy the
bulkhead in place
I am using white cedar for the coaming. I
clamped a peice to the cutout.
Then traced the cut-line.
Then cut it out on the band
saw
Test fit of the coaming
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Last revised: 7 September2003